The Rolling Wheel: 62nd Nehru Trophy Boat Race (09/08/2014)

When I was young child, Doordarshan used to broadcast boat races on TV. I always fancied seeing them live. After watching Snake Boat procession at Aranmula last year, I was determined to see a boat race this year. I zeroed on to Nehru Trophy Boat Race which is biggest of all boat races in Kerala, also known as ‘Mother of all Boat Races’ and ‘Kuttanad’s Olympics’. Nehru Trophy is named after India’s first Prime Minister Shri Jawahar Lal Nehru. During a visit to Kerala in 1952, Pt. Nehru was welcomed by organizing an impromptu boat race. Later after reaching Delhi, he sent a Silver Trophy for winner. I asked one colleague of mine to arrange two passes for me and I was ready to go...

This year it was 62nd edition of Nehru Trophy Boat race. It is organized every year at Punnamada Lake in Allepey (famous for backwaters and houseboats) on 2nd Saturday of August. We were advised to reach the venue by 10:30 AM (though race was to start at 3 PM) to occupy better seat but, as I always do, I ignored the good advice and reached there by 12:00 Noon only. By that time there was heavy rush and in confusion we landed in some different seating zone than we were supposed to. People there were seating from 9’O clock in morning.

The atmosphere was electric. This type of atmosphere can be seen at Cricket stadiums only. People were singing, dancing, shouting, cheering, playing tabla out of wooden platforms but no one seemed to be annoyed by noise. It felt like there was harmony in all that noise. We sat behind a group and conversation started. There were from Kollam. They were supporting boat No. 9 named Illikkalam. The team was practising for this race from past one and half months. We too decided to support them.

"Kuttanadan Punjayile,

Thi thi thara thi thi thai"

5 days ago I heard these magical lines and since then I am not able to help myself but to sing them every few minutes. This is the unofficial theme song of every boat race in Kerala. They call it Vanchipattu. Almost everyone there was singing this song. I asked about its meaning to one person in crowd. He told it is motivational song which motivated oarsmen to put more efforts. It was told that there is a pattern between song and a circle completed by oar. In between there were so many small boats passing by. I came to know that there were a total of 72 boats taking part in race but only 22 were Snake Boats or Chundan category.

Snake Boats or Chundan Vallams are each 100-120 feets in length, carrying around 100-120 oarsmen. It is not very wide but only 2 persons sit in a row. Four persons on hood with long oars give direction to the boat while others give speed. I was bit curious to know about its origin. I was sure it was not developed for transportation as you cannot expect all passengers to row. I asked one of my neighbours. He clarified snake boats were used in war for transportation of soldiers. Since traditional boats cannot carry so many soldiers, this special boat was designed on orders of some king 500 years back. Impressive!!

In between many boats passed. Some were smaller versions of Snake Boats, some of other types. Every time a boat passed, people cheered. But most cheers were reserved for boats with women as oarsmen. At around 2:30 PM, arrival of Chief Guest Smt. Sheila Dixit, Governor was announced and tempo started to build up. People were eager to wait the real action of Snake Boats. I was bit disappointed to hear that only 4 boats will race at a time and there will be four heats. The winner of each heat will fight again to win the coveted trophy.

Though I initially felt disappointed but this gave me an opportunity to feel the thrill again in next heat. Our team No. 9 was to contest in first heat. We were excited. Someone on mike announced flag-off. People roared. The race started. 400-450 people on 4 snake boats racing on 1400 Metres long track. Crowd was screaming. In few moments, all four boats zoomed past us. I shouted till my lungs came out. No. 9 won the heat. Wow.... I felt as if I was part of team.

We again got ready for next heat. There were four boats again. People again screamed and shouted and roared. No hint of fatigue. No hint that they are sitting from 9 in morning. Another boat wins by little margin. It continued again in next heat.

In final, there were four boats. There was one which was winning it from last two races; there was one which I supported. Final heat started, tension started to build up. We stood on our chairs to see. Race started. Very little difference between boats. People started to chant Thi thi thara thi thi thai .... Vuvuzelas started to sing too !!! Whistles poured in.

A third team won. That too by creating a record of being fastest in all editions. People again cheered. They were there to cheer irrespective of who wins. They were there to enjoy and they made sure they do that.

P.S.: There are other boat races which are yet to organized. Aranmula is oldest one. And if you plan to visit one, do take sunscreen, umbrella, food and water with you.

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