62nd Nehru Trophy Boat Race (09/08/2014)

When I was young child, Doordarshan used to broadcast boat races on TV. I always fancied seeing them live. After watching Snake Boat procession at Aranmula last year, I was determined to see a boat race this year. I zeroed on to Nehru Trophy Boat Race which is biggest of all boat races in Kerala, also known as ‘Mother of all Boat Races’ and ‘Kuttanad’s Olympics’. Nehru Trophy is named after India’s first Prime Minister Shri Jawahar Lal Nehru. During a visit to Kerala in 1952, Pt. Nehru was welcomed by organizing an impromptu boat race. Later after reaching Delhi, he sent a Silver Trophy for winner. I asked one colleague of mine to arrange two passes for me and I was ready to go...

This year it was 62nd edition of Nehru Trophy Boat race. It is organized every year at Punnamada Lake in Allepey (famous for backwaters and houseboats) on 2nd Saturday of August. We were advised to reach the venue by 10:30 AM (though race was to start at 3 PM) to occupy better seat but, as I always do, I ignored the good advice and reached there by 12:00 Noon only. By that time there was heavy rush and in confusion we landed in some different seating zone than we were supposed to. People there were seating from 9’O clock in morning.

The atmosphere was electric. This type of atmosphere can be seen at Cricket stadiums only. People were singing, dancing, shouting, cheering, playing tabla out of wooden platforms but no one seemed to be annoyed by noise. It felt like there was harmony in all that noise. We sat behind a group and conversation started. There were from Kollam. They were supporting boat No. 9 named Illikkalam. The team was practising for this race from past one and half months. We too decided to support them. 

"Kuttanadan Punjayile, 

        Thi thi thara thi thi thai"

5 days ago I heard these magical lines and since then I am not able to help myself but to sing them every few minutes. This is the unofficial theme song of every boat race in Kerala. They call it Vanchipattu. Almost everyone there was singing this song. I asked about its meaning to one person in crowd. He told it is motivational song which motivated oarsmen to put more efforts. It was told that there is a pattern between song and a circle completed by oar. In between there were so many small boats passing by. I came to know that there were a total of 72 boats taking part in race but only 22 were Snake Boats or Chundan category.

Snake Boats or Chundan Vallams are each 100-120 feets in length, carrying around 100-120 oarsmen. It is not very wide but only 2 persons sit in a row. Four persons on hood with long oars give direction to the boat while others give speed. I was bit curious to know about its origin. I was sure it was not developed for transportation as you cannot expect all passengers to row. I asked one of my neighbours. He clarified snake boats were used in war for transportation of soldiers. Since traditional boats cannot carry so many soldiers, this special boat was designed on orders of some king 500 years back. Impressive!!

In between many boats passed. Some were smaller versions of Snake Boats, some of other types. Every time a boat passed, people cheered. But most cheers were reserved for boats with women as oarsmen. At around 2:30 PM, arrival of Chief Guest Smt. Sheila Dixit, Governor was announced and tempo started to build up. People were eager to wait the real action of Snake Boats. I was bit disappointed to hear that only 4 boats will race at a time and there will be four heats. The winner of each heat will fight again to win the coveted trophy.

Though I initially felt disappointed but this gave me an opportunity to feel the thrill again in next heat. Our team No. 9 was to contest in first heat. We were excited. Someone on mike announced flag-off. People roared. The race started. 400-450 people on 4 snake boats racing on 1400 Metres long track. Crowd was screaming. In few moments, all four boats zoomed past us. I shouted till my lungs came out. No. 9 won the heat. Wow.... I felt as if I was part of team. 

We again got ready for next heat. There were four boats again. People again screamed and shouted and roared. No hint of fatigue. No hint that they are sitting from 9 in morning. Another boat wins by little margin. It continued again in next heat.

In final, there were four boats. There was one which was winning it from last two races; there was one which I supported. Final heat started, tension started to build up. We stood on our chairs to see. Race started. Very little difference between boats. People started to chant Thi thi thara thi thi thai .... Vuvuzelas started to sing too !!! Whistles poured in. 

A third team won. That too by creating a record of being fastest in all editions. People again cheered. They were there to cheer irrespective of who wins. They were there to enjoy and they made sure they do that.

P.S.: There are other boat races which are yet to organized. Aranmula is oldest one. And if you plan to visit one, do take sunscreen, umbrella, food and water with you. 

Few Clicks:

Snake Boat in action

Women Oarsmen !!

Women are ahead here too

Speed Boat racing ahead

One capsized too

Dancing on roof

Lungi dance in water

Vuvezulas 

My team :)

Saviour on streets ...

It is part of my job to verify the genuineness of activities of charitable trusts. Occasionally I come across people who are motivated to do something good for society and are engaged in doing charitable activities but story of Mr. Murukan S moved me.

I first met him when he came to my office to submit some documents. He introduced himself as General Secretary of an organization named 'Theruvoram'. He was looking very simple for a general secretary and little confused about all procedures. Yet his face was beaming with confidence to overcome all government procedures. My one colleague informed me that he is awarded by the President of India for social service. I decided to visit his organization next day. 

Next morning, we started together to his office. We started with talking about traffic on streets of Kochi. A church passed by. Two persons were lying on footpath asking for alms from devotees. He gave them a glance and paused for a second or two before saying anything. Then he picked a pamphlet about his organization and gave it to me. It was in Malayalam having his pictures of rescuing people from streets. In one picture he was carrying an old man, in another he was applying medicine to a person's wounds and in one, he was shaving a person's head. But this one surprised me.

He drives an auto rickshaw for living. I had never came across Secretary of any trust doing some other activity for living. Most of them make their living from trust only. That too handsomely. I asked him to tell more.

He told me that he was born at a tea plantation in Idukki district. His father and mother were plantation workers. After completing 4th standard, he came to Kochi. He started living in slums of kochi and started doing menial jobs for living. After that he was adopted by an orphanage which trained him to become a mason. He also distributed newspapers to increase his income. Then he started driving autorickshaw. 

He initially started with rescuing children from streets. 'I worked with Child line', he said. Whenever he saw a child in distress he would drive her to an orphanage. Then he felt there are adults also who are in distress. The very sight of people lying on footpaths or under over-bridges moved him. He started rescuing old-aged, physically or mentally challenged, alcoholics and all sort of people who are dire in need. He will then find their family members or relocate them to other place like orphanage or old age home. Soon, he realized he need more resources. He was not only rescuing people but providing food, shelter, medicine etc. till another organization stepped up. To meet the expenses, he started driving auto rickshaw in night also.

How many hours do you sleep?, I asked. He laughed and said, sir I have blessings from God, 4-5 hours is enough for me. We reached his rescue home. Its building is owned by Government of Kerala, he informed. 14-15 people were inside. There was a big hall with beds, two rooms for mentally challenged people and two rooms for old-aged. An old lady came near me and smiled. Her name is Lakshmi, he said. She was a rag picker before he spotted her. She said something to me in Malayalam and giggled. 'She want to dye her hair black', Murukan translated. I smiled. Innocence has nothing to do with age. 'She is feeling free after coming here and is full of life now', Murukan said as he showed me her pictures while rescuing. I was able to feel satisfaction on his face. Another person came. He is mentally challenged. He extended his hand to me. We shook hands. He became happy. I felt joy. Another lady came with coffee. She was sentenced to jail for some crime. She was abandoned by her family after her release from jail. She is staying there. 'Nobody is born criminal, conditions in slums can force any person to commit crime. Some of my friends from slum are habitual criminals now', Murukan said to me. He blamed this to poverty, lack of education and alcohol.

I saw many photographs of him receiving awards. 'You are famous now', I said. He smiled. He showed me a photograph of him receiving National Award from President Shri Pranab Mukherjee. I could see pride in his eyes.He said he has struggled a lot but he never felt demotivated. Few articles have been written on him in newspapers. He is implementing a project with Government of Kerala. I asked him how do you feel now? He told Government grants are not sufficient. Although people do help but now responsibilities have increased. Earlier my scope of work was limited to only one district but now I get requests from all parts of Kerala. Work has increased and so have expenses. 

Now, every morning he work for society and in night drives auto to meet expenses. His wife, who has completed MBA, earns to run household. He drives auto rikshaw to fund his charitable activities. He loves photography and had written a book. I was done with my verification. I felt like thanking him for providing me job satisfaction.

I clicked a photo. He told he is on facebook. I asked how will I find you, he said search 'Auto Murukan' on google, you will find me :). 

Few links:

http://theruvoram-theruvoram.blogspot.in/

http://theruvoram.org/

Misty Munnar !!

[This post is not a travel guide to Munnar. For that one can visit http://wikitravel.org/en/Munnar or tripadvisor. It is just an expression based on personal experience]

 A place has to be special if one visits it thrice in 6 months !!!

If Munnar was to be an adjective it would have been a synonym of tranquil, serene, calm, etc. Kochi to Munnar is nearly 130 kms by road. There is heavy rush of vehicles till Perumbavoor (nearly 40 kms) and traffic reduces after that. After Kothamangalam, one starts getting feeling of hilly area and once you reach Neriamangalam Bridge on Periyar River, you are at your first stop. This bridge is famous as 'The Gateway to the Highranges' as hills starts after crossing this bridge.

Another stop on this way was Cheeyapparra Waterfalls around 10 kms from Munnar. After that, tea plantations start.

It takes nearly 4 hours to reach Munnar. Enroute you see numerous waterfalls and abundant natural beauty. One is welcomed at Munnar by misty clouds. This is how it welcomed us at 02:00 in daytime:  

clouds and mist

Things to do at Munnar:

1. Feel the lazyness. First thing to do after reaching Munnar is to do nothing. Just enjoy the natural beauty. You will be welcomed by tea plantations before entering Munnar. Take a stroll and you will feel that doing nothing is so fun. Whenever we visit any place, we are always in hurry to cover as much tourist spots as possible. Munnar is a lazy, sleepy place but tourists here are always in hurry. With so many tourist spots to cover, life becomes hectic again as if we are performing our daily routine of 9-5 but in different surroundings. Ignore this.

2. Romance. With so many scenic valleys, hills, lakes, waterfalls in vicinity, the most obvious human emotion to evoke is romance and the presence of numerous couples on honeymoon will evoke this feeling more strongly. Walk with hands in hand, splash water in waterfalls, do boating, run around trees and shout names in valley !!!

3. The tourist spots. Don't hire a car and travel around all places. Take a scooter/motorcycle on rent. One can never feel 360 degree view and thus, the grandeur of Munnar in a car.It is a magnificent place having its own charm and splendor. Rent a scooter, stop anywhere. Just not visit them, feel them.

one can never get this view in a car

4. Feel the essence. This place is far away from hustle-bustle of a city. Take a break. Give way to trucks with paintings carrying wood logs from forest. Watch women and men plucking tea leaves in plantations. Pluck some leaves. Help loading some bags into tractor.

Loading of tea bags

5. Visit wildlife. Visit Eravikulam National Park to see Niligiri Tahr along with scenic beauty and tea gardens. View from top is breathtaking. Trek in Chinnar Wildlife sanctuary. watch herds of elephants and, if lucky, giant grizzled squirrel too. Even trekking is fun. Enroute pass through Sandalwood forests of Marayoor.
 

Nilgiri Tahr at Eravikulam National Park

6. Dance, Drama and Action. Munnar has many events to offer. Watch Kathakali dancers doing 'mudras'. It takes  nearly an hour to do the make up. Watch the dancer's eyes, eyebrows, mouth and lip movements. Watch their gestures. Even without saying anything they perform a drama.Talk to artists and you will know how much effort is involved. It takes more than six years to complete their course and lifetime of practice for perfection !!! Don't miss Kerala martial art form Kalarippayattu.

Male artist in female character

7. Kerala Food and tea. Forget the typical South Indian Dosa, Idli and Vada. Cherish Kerala delicacies Iddiyappam and Puttu here. Enjoy the sambhar/curries made in coconut oil. It taste very distinct from normal curries. Eat brown rice locally known as 'Chor' rice. Drink tea made in different way than normal boiling method.

A tea vendor preparing tea

8. Shopping. Purchase flavoured home made chocolates from here. Most famous shop is outlet of Kannan Devan but others are also good. Buy special Munnar tea freshly packed from tea gardens. Flavoured tea are also available in market. Try Jasmine, Rose, Green Apple, Peach, Lime flavours.

Photo Gallery:

Eravikulam National Park

Tea Garden

View from Top Point

Tea Gardens

Kundala Lake

Top Point

On the way

School on hill top

Waterfall

Lukkom Waterfall

Jaggery